Local Government Area of Niger State, North Central Nigeria. The
Kainji Lake National Park comprises the Kainji Lake and the Borgu and
Zugurma Game Reserves. It was established in 1979 and covers an area
of nearly 5,400 square kilometres. The park is managed by the Nigerian
National Park Service, assisted by the Niger State Tourism Board and
Borgu Emirate.
After a gruelling one-and a-half hour drive from the park entrance,
the dirt road terminates at the chalets of the Oli River tourist camp.
At first sight, there is a sombre look about the place. It is eerily
quiet for a wildlife park – no chirping of birds, or distant howl of
hyenas. However, an over-confident baboon struts across the chalet
with the mien of a homeowner. The baboon is big and lacks the agility
usually associated with its kind – it notices our group, throws a
bored glance in our direction and walks towards two park rangers
nearby.
They throw a loaf of bread and his absent agility changes into a
certain alertness. It lurches towards us with very self-assured steps
as if to say, "Now I have your attention". Well, we all took to our
heels.
Welcome to Kainji Lake National Park. Bordering Niger State, Kwara
State and the Benin Republic, it is no more than 6 hours from Abuja by
road. Despite the abundance of wildlife, Kainji is better known for
being home to the Kainji hydroelectricity dam.
Back on the dirt road, our tour guide informs us that the best time
for sightseeing is early in the morning or at dusk – these are the
times of the animals' local migration to watering holes or familiar
terrains. After driving for 45 minutes there is no sign of any wild
animal – save for the monkeys swinging high among the tree canopy.
"Where are the lions?" We keep asking the park ranger.
"You can only see a lion if you are patient. I have incantations that
can call lions out." We nod at his apparently unbelievable claim. Soon
our anxiety begins to morph into disappointment – there is no animal
in sight. Then, suddenly, we come across a huge herd of buck migrating
in their hundreds across the park, their rich brown hides with white
dots spread across the landscape, creating an alluring vista.
Our next stop is a sanctuary protected by a long barbed-wired fence.
This leads to a huge undergrowth of vines and climbers that opens onto
a lake which we think contains crocodiles. The park ranger tells us
excitedly that if we are patient enough, hippopotamus will come to the
surface. At first there is a certain disbelief, which disappears when
ripples run across the ponds. Then what looks like the top of a giant
head peeps above the surface of the water, and a moment later two eyes
are visible and then there, in all its majesty, is a shy hippopotamus.
The ranger tells us there are eight of these ponds in the sanctuary
spread over almost 25 kilometres, all filled with hippos.
Elephants have left the park since the Nigerian Air Force built a
training airstrip not far from the Game Reserve – the screaming jet
engines scared them away and they migrated to Benin. The park ranger
tells us, however, that they still come back every 24 months or so.
Another fascinating feature of the park is the Wildlife Museum, which
hosts an amazing collection of stuffed animals – according to our
guide, mostly animals that died from natural causes or were retrieved
from poachers. On display are huge ostrich eggs, a giant stuffed
crocodile, a huge ceiling-to-floor python skin, spiders, snakes and
other reptiles preserved in jars. The hides of several animals are
hung on the wall, alongside posters
with inscriptions like "No hunting in the park"– a reminder that
poaching by local hunters is the biggest challenge for gamekeepers.
Visitors should wear light clothes as the weather can get very warm at
the park. Light trainers are the best footwear for the terrain, and
hats should be worn for protection from the sun. Those unaccustomed to
the climate should bring mosquito repellent and sun cream. Visitors
should also beware of tsetse flies, insects and reptiles, as their
bites may be harmful. Guests are also advised to keep their chalet
doors and windows closed, to avoid uninvited guests – especially
marauding baboons like the one that greeted us.
Facilities at the chalets are basic, in the archetypal style of
wildlife camps. Guests can order meals from the restaurant. Mobile
phone networks are available to enable one to keep in touch with the
outside world, but there is no Internet facility unless you have your
own modem.
Kainji Lake National Park has a no litter policy and guests are
strongly advised not to drop litter, especially food. Feeding the
animals is strongly discouraged. The most important instruction to the
visitor is not to wander around without an armed ranger as escort. The
lion might just choose that moment to appear!
Source: http://www.fascinatingnigeriamagazine.com
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